Fish soup (uha), on the shore of the lake

Where it comes from

On the shore of Lake Costesti-Stanca, at Duruitoarea Veche, fish soup is made to an old recipe, with grains, nettles and other herbs picked on the spot. It is the fishermen's food, cooked where the fish was caught, while they wait for the water to settle.

There is nothing ceremonial about it. But it has one advantage nobody can beat: the fish reaches the pot an hour after leaving the water.

Which fish to use

Of the 26 species in the lake, four work best:

• Carp. The best. Firm flesh, it does not fall apart, and it gives a rich stock.
• Prussian carp. The easiest to come by. More bones, but excellent flavour.
• Bream. The most frequently caught fish in the lake. Good flesh, but it cooks fast.
• Zander. White, fine flesh, for a more delicate soup.

The basic rule: mix two or three species. The small bony fish give the stock, the large fish give the pieces.

Ingredients for six servings

• 1.5 kg fresh lake fish
• 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 bell pepper
• 2 or 3 potatoes
• 3 tablespoons of grains, that is fine cornmeal, pearl barley or rice
• a handful of young nettles in spring, lovage in summer
• 3 litres of water
• salt, peppercorns, a bay leaf
• dill and fresh parsley, at the end

How it is made

1. The fire, first

Wood, not charcoal. You let the embers settle, and the pot goes on a calm fire, not on a big flame. If the flame licks the sides of the pot, the soup takes on smoke and it is spoiled.

2. The stock

You clean the fish and cut it into pieces. Do not throw away the heads and tails, because the stock comes from them. Put them on to boil with the water, a whole onion, a carrot, the bay leaf and a few peppercorns. Leave 20 minutes, then strain and discard the remains.

3. The vegetables and the grains

Into the strained stock go the carrot cut into rounds, the pepper, the potatoes and the grains. Boil until the potatoes are nearly done. The grains are the local signature of the recipe: they thicken the stock and turn the soup into a real meal, not a thin broth.

4. The fish

The pieces of fish go in at the end and boil for ten to twelve minutes, no longer. This is where most people go wrong: overcooked fish falls apart and clouds the stock.

And do not stir with a spoon. Take the pot by the handle and rock it gently. That is the only movement allowed from the moment the fish goes in.

5. The greens

Take the pot off the fire, adjust the salt, and only then add the nettles or lovage, the dill and the parsley. Cover for five minutes. Boiled greens lose everything good about them.

Three things that make the difference

• The stock from the heads. It is the step people skip and the only one that cannot be replaced.
• The grains. Three tablespoons, no more, or it turns to porridge.
• Wood smoke. On a stove it comes out well. Over a wood fire it comes out different.

What to eat it with

With polenta and garlic sauce. Chilli goes on the side, for whoever wants it. And it is eaten outdoors, at the long table in the gazebo or right on the shore, where it was cooked.

At Hanul Cu Noroc

In the yard we have a barbecue, a cauldron, an oven and a stove. If you come with your catch from the lake, we cook it together. Tell us in advance and we will get the fire going. There are five gazebos and long wooden tables, so there is room for a whole group.

If you prefer traditional dishes ready made, we can arrange delivery from a nearby restaurant. Tell us in advance so we can place the order.

Frequently asked questions

Which fish do you use for fish soup?

Lake fish works best: carp, which has firm flesh and gives a rich stock, Prussian carp, bonier but still tasty, bream and zander. The rule is to mix two or three species, because the small bony fish give the stock and the large ones give the pieces. All of them are caught in Lake Costesti-Stanca.

How long does the fish boil in the soup?

Ten to twelve minutes, no longer. Overcooked fish falls apart and clouds the stock. From the moment the fish goes into the pot you no longer stir with a spoon, you rock the pot by the handle.

What is the difference between uha and fish borsch?

Uha is a clear fish soup, not soured. If at the end you add bran borsch, boiled separately, you get fish borsch. Both are made on the shore of Lake Costesti-Stanca, and the difference is only in the last step.

What are the grains in the recipe and why are they added?

The grains are fine cornmeal, pearl barley or rice, three tablespoons for six servings. This is the local signature of the recipe from the shore of Lake Costesti-Stanca: they thicken the stock and turn the soup into a meal. More than three tablespoons and it turns to porridge.

Can I cook the fish I caught at the guesthouse?

Yes. At Hanul Cu Noroc there is a barbecue, a cauldron, an oven and a stove in the yard. If you come with your catch from the lake, we cook it together. Tell us in advance and we will get the fire going. There are five gazebos and long wooden tables in the yard.