Itinerary · Northern Moldova
A weekend in northern Moldova: a two day itinerary
Two days in Duruitoarea Veche, without much driving. A cave where people lived 160,000 years ago, the largest lake in the country a hundred metres from the guesthouse, and a fish soup over the fire in the yard in the evening.
In short
- Day 1: the museum and the Duruitoarea gorge in the morning, a 20 minute walk from the guesthouse. The lake in the afternoon. Barbecue or fish soup in the evening.
- Day 2: either a 3 kilometre walk to Stanca Dragostei (Love Rock), or a drive out to Suta de Movile.
- What it costs: a room from 800 lei a night, the guided tour 500 lei for a group of up to 10 people, a kayak 200 lei.
Many people think northern Moldova is far away and that there is not much to see. From Chisinau to Duruitoarea Veche is about 200 kilometres, and the drive takes around three and a half hours. Within a few kilometres of the Hanul Cu Noroc guesthouse there is a cave people lived in during the Paleolithic, the only rural paleontology museum in the country, the largest reservoir in Moldova, and limestone cliffs formed from coral reefs.
Below is the plan we recommend to our guests.
Friday evening
Check-in starts at 14:00, but if you arrive in the evening you lose nothing. Drop your bags and walk down to the shore; it is a hundred metres. We leave the first evening free.
In the yard there is a barbecue, an oven, a stove and a kettle, if you want to cook for yourself. If you prefer traditional dishes, we can arrange delivery from a nearby restaurant. Tell us in advance so we can place the order.
Saturday morning: the museum and the cave
We recommend seeing the museum first and the cave afterwards. The Paleontology Museum in the village is the only rural paleontology museum in Moldova and holds exhibits over 250,000 years old. Once you have seen what was found here, you look at the stones in the gorge differently.
A twenty minute walk from the village are the Duruitoarea gorge and the cave. The oldest traces of human habitation in the country were found here: the lower layers are between 100,000 and 160,000 years old. About 10,000 bone remains were taken from the cave, along with flint and bone tools and the jawbone of a Neanderthal type Paleolithic human.
With a guide or without
The guided tour of the museum, the cave and the gorge costs 500 lei for a group of up to 10 people and 800 lei for 11 or more. It is worth the money, because otherwise the gorge is just a handsome cliff. Bring shoes with a good sole. We do not go to the gorge in the rain, because wet stone is slippery. The area is a protected nature reserve, so no digging and no taking fossils.
Saturday afternoon: on the water
You come back to the guesthouse to eat, then head to the lake. A kayak costs 200 lei and we also have pedal boats. If you brought rods, the shore is a hundred metres away, but first read what you can catch and when the ban applies, because in spring fishing is forbidden on the Prut and on the lake between 9 April and 7 June.
For children we have swings and a trampoline in the yard. The painting workshop costs 60 lei for children and 100 lei for adults.
Saturday evening: fish soup (uha)
We spend the evening around the fire with a fish soup, which locals call uha. If you caught something, we cook it together, following the recipe of the fishermen on this lake, with grains and greens picked on the shore. There are five gazebos and long wooden tables in the yard, so there is room for a larger group as well.
Sunday: two options
The short option: Love Rock
You walk three kilometres from the village, through rocks and meadows, to a limestone reef with grottoes standing above the water. From the top you can see the whole valley. It is the finest walk in the area and takes half a day. All you need is boots and a bottle of water.
If you want to know what you are walking on, read about the toltre first. These rocks were the floor of a warm sea about 15 million years ago.
The long option: Suta de Movile
You drive out to the Suta de Movile reserve, between the villages of Braniste and Cobani. The reserve covers 1,072 hectares strung with over 3,500 mounds, some 30 metres high. Even now nobody is certain how they formed. The landscape looks like nothing else in northern Moldova and is at its best early in the morning or towards evening.
What to bring
- Boots or trainers with a good sole. Every route crosses grass and stone.
- Water. There is nowhere to get any up on the hill.
- A hat and sun cream in summer, because the hills are open and there is no shade.
- A charged phone or camera. The good light is early in the morning and in the last two hours before sunset.
- Rubber boots if you are coming to fish. The bank on the Ciuhur bay side is soft.
- A bag for rubbish.
If it rains
The museum is under a roof, and the gazebos in the yard are covered. In the rain we do not recommend the gorge or Love Rock: wet limestone is badly slippery and the climb becomes dangerous. On a day like that it is better to stay in the yard.
Which month is best
We welcome guests from May through October.
- May and June: everything is green and the gorge is at its best, but that is when the fishing ban applies.
- July and August: the good months for the lake and for swimming.
- September: in our view the best time. The water is still warm, the hills turn golden, and mist settles over the lake in the morning.
- October: the quietest, and the best for photographs.
Frequently asked questions
What can you visit in a weekend at Duruitoarea Veche?
In a weekend you can reach the Paleontology Museum and the Duruitoarea gorge with its Paleolithic cave, both a 20 minute walk from the guesthouse, Lake Costesti-Stanca, which is 100 metres away and where you can take a kayak or a pedal boat, and Love Rock, a 3 kilometre walk away. On Sunday you can drive out to the Suta de Movile reserve.
What does a weekend at Hanul Cu Noroc cost?
Rooms start at 800 lei a night for the private room with shared bathroom and 1200 lei for the standard room. Each room takes up to 4 people, and parking is included. The guided tour of the museum, the cave and the gorge costs 500 lei for a group of up to 10 people. A kayak costs 200 lei, and the painting workshop 60 lei for children and 100 lei for adults.
Which is the best month to come?
We welcome guests from May through October. In May and June everything is green, but that is when the fishing ban applies. July and August are the good months for the lake. September is, in our view, the best time, because the water is still warm, the hills turn golden and mist settles over the lake in the morning. October is the quietest.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes. In the yard there are swings, a trampoline and a painting workshop, which costs 60 lei for children and 100 lei for adults. The 20 minute walk to the gorge is easy, and the lake is 100 metres away. The 3 kilometre walk to Love Rock suits older children better.
What do I do if it rains?
The museum is under a roof, and the five gazebos in the yard are covered. In the rain we do not recommend the gorge or Love Rock, because wet stone is badly slippery and the climb becomes dangerous.
Sources
- The prices, distances and schedule are those of the Hanul Cu Noroc guesthouse.
- The facts about the cave, the gorge, the lake and Suta de Movile have sources cited in the articles linked from this text.
Are there rooms free?
Nine rooms and 36 beds, a hundred metres from the lake. Message us and we will tell you what is free.
A guesthouse in Duruitoarea Veche, Riscani district. 9 rooms and 36 beds, 100 metres from Lake Costesti-Stanca. Open from May through October.
Phone and WhatsApp: +373 798 48 077
