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What it actually is

Many tourism materials present it as the only waterfall in northern Moldova. It is not. The tallest waterfall in the country is also called Duruitoara, but it is near Vertiujeni, in the Floresti district, and has nothing to do with our village. There are others too, at Parcani and at Tipova.

What is true, and it is enough, is that waterfalls in the north of the country can be counted on one hand, and this is the closest one to us. It is worth the trip for the gorge as a whole, not only for the water.

The waterfall has three steps: a small one of a metre and a half, one of two and a half metres and one of three and a half. Do not expect a spectacular drop. It is water coming down in steps through a crack in the limestone, with walls tens of metres high on either side.

The two grottoes

Two caves open in the walls to the left and right of the waterfall. The better known one is called „Casoaia”, that is a big house. The name comes from the way you get in: you lie on your stomach and slip under the rock, and after a few metres you stand up in a wide, almost square chamber.

It is not just a curiosity. There is a spring in Casoaia, and archaeologists found traces of Palaeolithic and Eneolithic occupation there. Which means the people who slept in the cave in our own village used these shelters too, along the same Ciuhur valley.

One clarification, because we have seen the confusion in the material going around: casoaie is a local word for any large cave. There is a Casoaia at Duruitoarea Veche as well. When you ask in the village, say which one you mean.

Where the name comes from

The people of Varatic named it so because there were a great many snakes in the water of the waterfall. They are water snakes, not venomous, which sit on the wet stones and throw themselves into the water when you come near. They are still there, especially on hot days. If you come with children, tell them beforehand so they do not get a fright.

The season runs from May through October. May and June are the greenest, and the gorge looks its best then, but that is also when the fishing ban is in force. July and August are the months for the lake, the kayaks and the pedal boats. September is, in our view, the best time: the water is still warm, the hills turn golden, and mist settles over the lake in the morning.

This is the part to read before you set off. The Ciuhuret is a small stream. The waterfall is heard from far off in spring and after rain, but in July and August it can be left with no more than a dampness on the stone.

Best of all is in April and May, when the water is high and the gorge is green, or in autumn, after the first rains. If you come in high summer, ask us how the stream is doing. We will tell you honestly whether it is worth the trip that day.

How to get there from Duruitoarea Veche

Here is the trap. On the map, Varatic looks a stone's throw away, some five kilometres in a straight line to the north. But there is no road through the Ciuhur gorge. You have two options, and it is worth picking the one that suits your car.

The last two kilometres of the short option go at walking pace, on a rutted track. After rain the earth there turns to glue and you stay put. If you have no off-roader, take the long way, it is not worth the risk.

From Hanul Cu Noroc it works well as a half day outing. Nicolae will tell you which option is passable that day and can come with you if you like.

How far is Duruitoarea Veche from Chisinau?

Where is the Snakes' Waterfall?

In the Varatic Gorge, near the village of Varatic, Riscani district, in northern Moldova. Approximate coordinates: 47°55′08″N, 27°17′15″E. The waterfall is on the Ciuhuret stream, a tributary of the Ciuhur, not on the Ciuhur itself.

How big is the Snakes' Waterfall?

It has three steps, of 1.5 metres, 2.5 metres and 3.5 metres. It is not a tall waterfall but a stepped one, in a narrow limestone gorge. The tallest waterfall in the Republic of Moldova is Duruitoara, near Vertiujeni, which has nothing to do with our village.

When does the Snakes' Waterfall have water?

In spring and after rain. The Ciuhuret stream is small, and in July and August it can dry up completely. If you come in summer and want to see water, ask us first how the stream is doing, so you do not make the trip for nothing.

Why is it called the Snakes' Waterfall?

The people of Varatic named it so many years ago, because there were a great many snakes in the water of the waterfall. They are water snakes, not venomous, and they are still seen today on the wet stones.

How far is it from Duruitoarea Veche to the Snakes' Waterfall?

It depends what you drive. On the dirt road it is about 7 kilometres, but the last two kilometres go at walking pace and only in dry weather. On asphalt, going round through Zaicani, it is about 20 kilometres and 35 minutes. There is no direct road through the gorge.